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Bangkok’s Iconic Demon Sculpture Descends: A Tale of Belief and Modernity

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Picture a scene where a looming, larger-than-life winged demon, adorned with fearsome fangs and claws as red as the fires they might emerge from, once was a daring sight that caught the glances of both bewildered motorists and inquisitive onlookers traveling along Ratchadaphisek Road. That’s the vivid portrait previously etched into the fabric of Thai street view when ‘Khru Kai Kaeo’ stood tall by The Bazaar Hotel. However, destiny had different plans for this mythical creature and its otherworldly companion, a nine-tailed fox.

The clock ticked towards a turning point when the State Railway of Thailand issued an ultimatum: by December 30th, the imposing figure and its foxy counterpart, must be whisked away from prying eyes. Consequently, the hotel operator, the energetic hive of activity known as Suan Lum Night Bazaar Ratchadaphisek, was slapped with a fine hefty enough to make one’s wallet wince—a whopping 1.3 million baht, all under the grave charge of stepping out of line with the Building Control Act.

Intrigue spiraled into action as the statues were swiftly relocated to a more discreet backstage setting, preserving the hotel’s front area as a canvas soon to metamorphose into a vibrant playground for guests, as revealed by Mr. Pairoj Thungthong, the hotel’s visionary.

Unveiled in August of the year swiftly slipping into the wings of history, the ‘grand demon’ sent ripples across social media, giving birth to groups whose fascination with Khru Kai Kaeo bordered on the devotional. This enigmatic figure, woven into Thai folklore as the mentor of an ancient Khmer king, attracted crowds, some hailing him as a veritable deity of fortune.

Yet, amidst the whispers of reverence, a stark contrast emerged from the shadows. A cohort, under the banner of the Council of Artists Supporting Thai Buddhism, vociferously contested the statue’s presence. Their outcry against perceived unorthodox rituals, including animal sacrifices, appealed to the venerable Bangkok Metropolitan Administration for an exorcism of sort—bring down the demon.

Watching this spectacle with a sage’s gaze, the highly esteemed Phra Phayom Kalayano, abbot of Wat Suan Kaew, raised a voice of reason amidst the cacophony of opinions. With a spiritual leader’s concern, he offered his wise counsel to the devotees caught up in the rapture of their newfound idol. In a world where the concrete can be molded into any deity, he implored the masses to look beyond the physical, to embody virtues exemplified by the great teachers like Buddha or Jesus—a beacon guiding the lost back to the shores of righteousness and true role models of the very essence of goodness.

The story of Khru Kai Kaeo stands as a testament to the fascinating crisscross of belief, folklore, and modernity—a rich tapestry that threads through the tapestries of Thai culture. And as the great demon takes his leave, one is reminded of the ever-dynamic dance between the sacred and the spectacle, the ancient and the avant-garde—a dance that continues to intrigue and inspire those who dare to delve into its myriad hues.

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